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Krytac

KRYTAC Trident MK3 CRB-M Airsoft AEG Rifle

  • Rifle
  • AEG (Electric)
  • SKU AEG-KTAEG-TR3CRBM-BK13

Best price we found

$389.00

at Evike.com

✓ In stock at 2 retailers

View at Evike.com Compare all 4 retailers
Also search this gun on Amazon

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Price comparison

Price and stock by retailer
Retailer In stock Price Difference Link
Evike.com Best price Yes $389.00 View deal for $389.00 at Evike.com (opens in a new tab)
Airsoft Station Yes $389.00 View deal for $389.00 at Airsoft Station (opens in a new tab)
Amped Airsoft No $388.99 View deal for $388.99 at Amped Airsoft (opens in a new tab)
RedWolf Airsoft No $388.99 View deal for $388.99 at RedWolf Airsoft (opens in a new tab)

Prices last checked 2 hours ago. Always confirm on the retailer site before buying.

Price history

  • Lowest tracked $388.99
  • Highest tracked $389.00
  • Price changes recorded 15

Based only on prices we have observed since tracking began.

About this airsoft gun

KRYTAC Trident MK3 CRB-M Airsoft AEG Rifle
Carbine-length, full-metal M4-pattern AEG with an M-LOK handguard, powered by a battery and gearbox.

Buyers search the Krytac Trident MK2/MK3 as a single name because both generations sit on shelves at the same time and look nearly identical from a few feet away. The CRB-M is the middle of that family: a carbine-length AEG built on Krytac’s own receiver rather than a licensed copy of anyone else’s rifle.

What you are actually buying

Krytac is the airsoft brand of KRISS USA, the company behind the Vector. The Trident is not a trademarked clone. The receiver is aluminum with a billet-style profile that belongs to Krytac, so the gun reads as an M4 in silhouette and handling without carrying anyone else’s rollmarks.

The suffixes on the box do the work of a spec sheet:

  • CRB is the carbine configuration — the middle length in the Trident line, short enough to move with indoors and long enough to shoot outdoors.
  • -M means the M-LOK handguard — a machined aluminum rail rather than a full quad rail, so rail sections, hand stops, sling mounts and light mounts attach directly at the slots you actually use.
  • MK3 is the current generation. The controls are the part you feel first: an enlarged bolt release, an improved ambidextrous selector and an ambidextrous magazine release.

It feeds from standard M4-pattern AEG magazines, which is the quietest advantage on this list. Mags are everywhere, they are cheap, and you will not be hunting a proprietary pattern three seasons from now. The trigger is a licensed CMC unit and it is adjustable — unusual on a factory AEG, where the trigger is normally whatever the gearbox shipped with and not something you get to tune.

Internals and the upgrade path

This is where the Trident line earns its position at the premium end of the AEG market. Krytac fits the MK3 with its Nautilus gearbox, an M4-pattern shell running on steel bearings with a ported full-metal rack piston, an improved rotary hop-up unit, and a high-torque motor. The trigger runs on a microswitch feeding an integrated FET, which brings faster trigger response, partial active braking, low-battery detection and gear-strip protection.

Read that list as a purchase decision rather than a feature dump. Bearings, pistons, hop-up units, motors and MOSFETs are exactly the categories the airsoft aftermarket exists to sell you. Having them fitted at the factory means the rifle is meant to be fielded as it arrives, not opened on a workbench first.

Two honest caveats on the upgrade path:

  • Krytac’s shell and parts are Krytac’s. Much of the standard M4-pattern aftermarket fits, but not all of it, and fitment is worth confirming part by part before you order internals. Krytac publishes manuals and parts diagrams, and those are the reference to check against.
  • The factory electronics change how you work on it. The MK3 shell is cut to accept aftermarket ECUs, which is the modern way to upgrade this gun — but a wiring job here is a more involved afternoon than swapping a plain trigger switch. If your plan is to gut a rifle immediately, you are paying for good internals you intend to bin.

If any of that vocabulary is new, the airsoft gearbox guide covers shells, MOSFETs and what actually breaks first.

Who it suits, and who should look elsewhere

It suits the player who wants to buy a primary once and then stop thinking about it — someone who plays regularly, wants consistency shot to shot, and would rather spend the off-season on gear than on a gearbox.

Look elsewhere if:

  • You want recoil and realism. An AEG does not kick. If that is the point of the hobby for you, read AEG vs GBB vs HPA before you commit, because a gas blowback rifle or an HPA setup answers a different question.
  • You want a cheap donor to rebuild. Paying for factory internals you plan to replace is the wrong end of the market to shop in.
  • Weight matters to you. Full-metal receivers are heavier than polymer ones. For a smaller or younger player carrying a rifle through a full game day, that is a real consideration.
  • You only ever play tight indoor CQB. A shorter configuration handles better in corridors and doorways.

Getting it field-ready

Before the gun

Eye protection is mandatory at every field, and it is the one purchase not to economize on. Full-seal goggles or a rated mesh-and-lens setup, with fogging behavior considered before you buy — the eye protection guide covers the difference.

Power

An AEG needs a battery and a charger, and neither is guaranteed to be in the box. Check the retailer listing for what ships with the rifle, then match three things: the connector type Krytac specifies, a physical size that fits the space the stock gives you, and a balance charger if you are running LiPo. Ordering a battery whose plug does not match is the most common first mistake on a new AEG.

Ammunition and limits

Feed it quality seamless BBs. Cheap BBs damage hop-up rubber and jam barrels, and that is a self-inflicted repair on a gun bought precisely to avoid repairs. Weight is the lever you have over range and stability once the hop is dialed in — the BB weight guide explains what a heavier BB actually buys you. Finally, check the listed FPS against your field’s limit before you order, especially for indoor CQB, where the cap is usually lower and often enforced with a chronograph at sign-in.

How it compares to its siblings

Krytac splits this decision two ways: length, and line.

Along the Trident line, length is the whole choice. The Trident MK3 PDW-M is the short one, better suited to indoor play and anything cramped; the SPR-M is the long one, aimed at open fields and marksman roles. The internals family is shared across them, so the CRB-M is the compromise that is wrong nowhere rather than perfect anywhere.

Across lines, the Krytac Alpha CRB-M is a similar layout in Krytac’s entry-level series. It shares the same Nautilus gearbox family and still carries a MOSFET, so the gap is narrower than the entry-level label suggests. What you give up is the licensed CMC adjustable trigger, the microswitch and enhanced FET package built around it, and the MK3’s ambidextrous control set. If the Trident’s parts list is more gun than your play schedule justifies, the Alpha is the honest cross-shop.

Is the Krytac Trident MK2/MK3 CRB-M the right buy?

Yes, if you value a rifle that arrives finished. The MK3 CRB-M is a full-metal, ambidextrous, M-LOK carbine with a hop-up, motor, piston and trigger package that would otherwise be assembled one aftermarket part at a time. It is not the rifle for a tinkerer looking for a platform to strip, and it is not the lightest thing you can carry all day. It is what you buy when you would rather play than build.

Before ordering, confirm the exact configuration and color you want, what ships in the box, and whether the listing is an MK2 or an MK3 — the two generations are still sold alongside each other. Check current availability at Evike, then weigh it against the other retailers in the table above.

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